Laos – Luang Probang, Vang Viene, Tad Lo, Four Thousand Islands

Our first destination in Laos was Luang Probang where we arrived on the 16th. It is a lovely provincial city – surrounded by lush green vegetation and mountains, the perfect place to relax by the river and watch the world go by. We visited beautiful temples – very different to the one’s we had seen in Vietnam which had far more Chinese influence in their designs – and went to the night markets to see all the beautiful cloth and artwork and jewellery. We spent an afternoon hiring bicycles and cruising along the Mekong river that meanders through the town, stopping for an ice cold fruit shake or just to enjoy the views….we came across a bamboo bridge which crossed at quite a wide part of the river. It was skillfully made by a local family, and there was a polite notice asking for 5,000 KIP (about 60p) to cross, stating that the bridge had to be rebuilt every 6 months as the water level of the river rises so high during the rainy season each year it is washed away and has to be rebuilt! The highlight for us was going to Tat Kuang Si waterfalls which were the most beautiful cascading waterfalls tumbling over limestone rocks in a forest that have been eroded into smooth rounded boulders and formed into deep pools you could swim in. The water was a beautiful light turquoise colour and icy cold! But we jumped in anyway and reveled being the only tourists there as we had set of early in the morning. It was magical!

After a couple of days in Luang Probang we reluctantly left this beautiful place on the 18th to travel on to Vang Viene, 7 hours south – now globally known for its ‘tubing’ experience. For those of you who have not heard someone at some point rave about tubing in Laos:  it simply involves an inner tube (big inflatable ring) and a flowing river that meanders through mountains and beautiful countryside for a few hours, a truly relaxing experience. Apart from when the current picks up. Or you head straight toward the bank headfirst, or you don’t notice those sharp pointy rocks sticking up in the middle of the river till a bit too late (thanks for the warning Neil!) No it was fine! Only 16 deaths so far this year…Along the way you can stop off at a bar and enjoy fresh juice drink or a beer, or a not so innocent ‘happy shake’, opium bong or tea!….Anyway enough of that my parents are reading this – SO JUST TO CLARIFY WE DID NOT DO ANY OF THAT! Actually mum I think you would love it – not the happy shakes, the tubing!! There are also slides and rope swings into the river and hammocks and all sorts to keep you entertained along the way and Bob Marley blaring from speakers so there is something for everyone. Well we had fun, and mingled with a range of people - from a group of ‘typical’ British lads enjoying the booze as much as the tubes, and a three generations (they had kids young) family who peacefully floated alongside us for much of the ride. I was impressed to see the grandfather (58 years old) give the 15 foot high rope swing into the river a go, I onlyhope I'm still that youthful when I get to that age!

On the 21^st of December after an afternoon and a night of travel by bus we finally arrived in the south of Laos where we planned to stay three days in TatdLo, in an area called the Bolavian Plateau. After lugging our backpacks along a dusty road for a mile or so in blazing sunshine in the middle of the day we rounded a corner and there before us was a beautiful blue river shimmering in the sun’s rays, and perfectly in harmony with the villagers who were peacefully washing their clothes or hair on its banks. As soon as we arrived at our guest house perfectly located next to the waterfall that the river gently flowed from I changed into my swimsuit and jumped straight into to its cooling waters. Ah bliss, to wash off all the dust and dirt of almost two days travelling! I swam around contentedly. For the next couple of days Neil and I trekked along the river through forest/bush following it upstream to pass its three beautiful waterfalls. We met a great Israeli couple who joined us along the way and we spent the day jumping in the rivers and waterfalls, then making small fires to keep warm.

We also enjoyed an elephant ride lumbering through the bush and across the streams from a nearby resort which had tamed elephants to feed and ride. Neil and I took turns to sit on the elephants head (where the rider usually sits) whilst he kindly hoped about on rocks to take photos of us wading majestically through the water. Interestingly the rider controls the elephant by kicking his heels gently behind the elephant’s ears. Also, as well as bananas, elephants also eat sugar canes which they angle in their trunks and snap off what they want to eat with their feet (hooves?!). Okay well I was impressed. Sugar cane is pretty strong, it was about 4cm in diameter and 3 meters long.

The next day Neil tested his moped skills (no license needed here just brovado) which he apparently honed a few years ago in Kenya, and after a a few wobbly starts the two of us and our new friends set off to see more of this lushly green and lowly populated region. We passed through (literally – and no one said a word!) coffee plantations, and saw a tiny “factory” where the beans where picked, sorted, dried and roasted right alongside a road. Obviously it was small scale, about 10 young lads working in a small hut with the basic equipment. They were happy for us to look around and take a few photos. We then passed through villages with children besides themselves with joy to see 4 Westerners whizzing by on bikes and waving and smiling till our arms/jaws ached at these beautiful, innocent children. The beauty of Laos is that it has not been plagued with tourists the way Vietnam so sadly has. Here children are still happy and excited to see you as foreigners are still few, especially in the Southern, more remote and less travelled parts of Laos that the average backpacker doesn’t usually bother to travel to.

I really didn’t want to leave the beauty and serenity of this place, so few tourists, so many waterfalls, but we were onto a place called Si Phan Don, or Four Thousand Islands for Christmas, so we could hardly complain, and moved on without trouble. Well actually we did have a bit of trouble getting there. We got on the wrong bus and ended up travelling on 5 different forms of transport that day to finally get there – first in the back of a pick up truck, then by local bus, then tuck-tuck, then we had to get driven all the way back to where we went wrong by moped, then boat, then finally our own two feet. It was worth it in the end! We stayed on an island called Don Khong which is the biggest of the islands that sits on the Mekong river where it reaches its widest point. On Christmas day we chilled on some tubes (like in Vang Vieng but much more peaceful – without the booze and the bars) and cruised on down the river for a couple of hours with a very nice boatman. We spotted an eagle soaring in the skies above us!We then hditched the tubes and hopped onto the boat and whilst Neil did some fishing (ledgering so I’m told) I kicked back and relaxed with my book until sundown…

Sadly I got sick as soon as we got onto dry land and had a minor 24-hour tummy bug so I spent Christmas day evening in bed. The next day when I had perked up a tad, we got some bikes and explored the island the next afternoon. We saw more stunning waterfalls and stumbled upon a secret hidden beach where we saw the sun sink down into scenic landscape of mountains, forest, jagged rocks, cascading rivers, a deep rock pool and soft white sands. It was as beautiful as it sounds, unfortunatly our cameras just couldn't do it justice.

On the 27^th of December we left Laos onto Cambodia and thankfully had a hassle-free boarder crossing. We are now in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital and it is a beautiful place. The people here are very kind and gentle and helpful, and they all have warm, smiling faces. We feel truly welcome here.

For now, Happy Christmas and Seasons Greetings from myself and Neil,

Xxx